This Luxury Hotel in Rome Was Named One of the Best Hotels in the World by T+L Readers — and Has the Most Beautiful Courtyard I've Ever Seen (2024)

Walking through Rome’s Villa Borghese gardens, my husband and I came to a lookout point with a view of Piazza del Popolo. I, however, paid little attention to the neoclassical elliptical square, even with a 79-foot obelisk in the center. I was too busy photographing the most enticing courtyard I’d ever seen. It had three rows of bright-white umbrellas abutting a pale-pink building with turquoise shutters — the kind of scene that made me crave a Spritz and castelvetrano olives because I couldn't help but picture the chic, linen-clad folk enjoying aperitivo on that patio.

About three hours later, I checked into Hotel de Russie, which I picked because it was named T+L readers’ favorite hotel in Rome in 2023 and among the best city hotels in Europe. These 2023 World’s Best Awards landed the Rocco Forte hotel — one of two in Rome — a coveted spot on this year’s T+L 500.

And yet somehow, even knowing the details of Hotel de Russie’s accolades, I was shocked when, after check-in, I walked across the lobby, through the open doors, to the exact venue I’d painstakingly photographed a few hours before. I didn’t even make it up to my room. I asked the concierge if he could hold our bags while we had a drink on the patio, and a few minutes later, I was seated beneath a bright-white umbrella as a server put down a Negroni for me, a gin martini with a twist for my husband, and a trio of snacks — potato chips, almonds, and olives. I couldn’t believe my luck. I was a pair of really short bangs, a striped silk scarf, and a vintage Vespa away from living out Audrey Hepburn’s "Roman Holiday" life.

We lingered for a few hours, leisurely succumbing to the snack menu — tissue paper–thin prosciutto on crusty bread, the perfect complement to a second Negroni. I checked my Google Map of Rome recommendations and found we were stumbling distance from my cousin's go-to Roman wine bar, Buccone Vini e Olii, and a cozy restaurant favored by one of my colleagues, Hostaria Da Pietro. Evening plans? Check. The problem? I had no interest in ever leaving this courtyard.

Here, my review of the iconic Hotel de Russie — a Rocco Forte hotel and longtime T+L reader favorite.

The Rooms

Once we wrapped up our prolonged patio stint, we ascended to our spacious Deluxe Room. It was nearly 450 square feet, which is impressive for a standard hotel room in a major European city (the entry-level rooms are just a touch smaller, at about 375 square feet; the junior suites start at 540 square feet; and the Superior Suites start at 650 square feet). For a true taste of Roman luxury, the special suites and Forte suites have terraces or French balconies, with heavenly views of the hotel's courtyard or the surrounding historic buildings.

When I got to our room, I twisted the gold knob on one of three dual-paned windows. I poked my head out the window — no screens, this is Europe — taking in the light yellow, beige, and bright coral facades of the apartment buildings across the street, all with bright blue and green shutters. Across the street, I could see friends gathering on a balcony for sunset and laundry swinging in the breeze on an adjacent rooftop. It felt like I had my own little Roman apartment — with a marble bathroom and Rocco Forte hotel amenities.

Food and Drink

Hotel de Russie has two restaurants; the Stravinskij Bar is a magical, umbrella-shaded terrace with a small indoor operation as well. The main restaurant is Le Jardin de Russie, which inhabits the upper terrace (up a set of alfresco stone stairs from Stravinskij Bar) and an adjacent dining room. Le Jardin serves a fantastic breakfast buffet and elevated classics — like grilled whole branzino. For something a little less formal, Stravinskij Bar serves dinner, too, and makes a lovely pasta all'Amatriciana, which is admittedly plentiful in Rome, but can you ever really have too much crispy guanciale?

Amenities and Experiences

The concierge team at Hotel de Russie can help you set up tours or book tickets to museums or attractions. We visited in the summer when advance ticketing was crucial, but the concierge could easily book us same-day entry to the Colosseum. The hotel also offers tours that are exclusively available to de Russie guests; one of the newest experiences, called a Journey Through Time at the Roman Forum, visits sites such as the Basilica Ulpia with an art historian, with the option to add on an extravagant tasting menu at Rimessa Roscioli afterward.

The Spa

My husband and I spent a fantastic morning in the spa, starting with a seven-mile run in the gym, an ill-conceived attempt to work off all the amatriciana. From there, we went to the hammam, slipping into the massive blue-tiled warm pool. After a long soak, he hit the sauna while I read my book on a poolside lounge chair, enjoying the calming effect of the silver- and blue-tiled walls that seemed to glow as if the room were encrusted with precious gems. The spa also offers facials using Irene Forte skin care products and massages, and the hotel is expanding the space.

Family-friendly Offerings

Hotel de Russie can make a family room by connecting two Deluxe Rooms. While I didn't encounter a lot of children during my stay, I love to see families bring children of any age to a European city — There's so much to experience! The food and culture more than make up for the transatlantic flight! — and would definitely return to the hotel with a kid in tow. The concierge can assist parents in coordinating family-friendly activities, and there is a Rocco Forte kids program for children aged 0 to 16, where each young visitor gets a Rocco Forte passport.

Accessibility and Sustainability

Six of the hotel's 120 rooms are accessible, and wheelchairs are available upon request. The hotel's ground-floor common areas are accessible, though there are "some limitations in the upper side of the historical garden," according to a hotel spokesperson. As a brand, Rocco Forte is keen to reduce its carbon footprint, and at de Russie, there is an electric e-tuk for guest rides and charging available for electric cars. To reduce energy use, all Rocco Forte hotels (including de Russie) do candlelit evenings once a week, where the restaurants and bars are illuminated only by flickering candles. The hotel also prioritizes digital check-in to eliminate paper waste and frequently donates furniture and amenities to local charities (recently, while refreshing the de Russie gym, all the old equipment was donated to the Blind Association on nearby Via Margutta).

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

Check the hotel website for deals because Rocco Forte offers generous ones. The occasionally offered Forte Escapes discount, for example, gets guests up to 25 percent off a stay of two nights or more. I'm a traveler who swears by her American Express Platinum card, and card members will be glad to know that Hotel de Russie is indeed part of Amex Fine Hotels and Resorts. Those booking their stay with an American Express will get a 12 p.m. check-in, 4 p.m. check-out, room upgrade if available, daily breakfast for two, and $100 credit for food and drink.